Think about this scenario for a minute..."I'm heading to an auto garage in Lincoln to enjoy some good pizza." Now break this sentence apart: First, few people go to Lincoln to enjoy any kind of food, because other than the upscale AKA Bistro and the casual Whistle Stop Gourmet deli and bakery, which are both by the Lincoln commuter rail stop, you probably won't find any food in Lincoln (unless you start knocking on people's doors). Second, good pizza seems to be difficult (though not impossible) to find in the rural western suburbs of Boston that lie just beyond Route 128. And third--and this is where it really seems to break down--why on earth would anyone go to an auto garage for a decent meal? And yet there on Lincoln Road sits Doherty's Garage, where you can get gas, a new exhaust, coolant flushes, oil changes, and yes, pizza and sandwiches from a section of the garage called Country Pizza.
Auto garages, gas stations, and repair shops, generally aren't all that pretty, and Doherty's is no exception. It is what it is--a place to take your car when it needs something. And similarly, Country Pizza isn't exactly the type of spot where you would go to watch the sun set while enjoying a leisurely meal. The interior is both sparse and cluttered, with a counter section for ordering and a handful of hard booths along the front and left walls that suffer from dim lighting. Ultimately, Country Pizza is really just a sub shop, though perhaps not even at that level, as the utter lack of atmosphere makes this more of a place where locals call in their orders, pick up their food, and head home where they can dine in comfort.
Are you scared off by this place yet? Well, don't be; first of all, the people behind the counter are very friendly and seem to know more than a few folks who come in to order, almost giving it the feel of a public meeting place. And second, the pizza here is good--really good, actually, with a deliciously rich and spicy sauce and a style that isn't quite Greek, isn't exactly bar pizza, and isn't really thin-crust Italian-style, either. Rather, it is a thick-crust pan pizza that is somewhere near the intersection of all three (though closest to Greek), not unlike that of the nearby New London Pizza in Concord as well as some pizza places in parts of Eastern Connecticut and Central Massachusetts. Pies at Country Pizza can be ordered with basic toppings such as pepperoni, mushroom, hot peppers, hamburger, etc., or more "gourmet" toppings such as artichoke hearts and grilled chicken, along with specialty pizzas with multiple toppings. Other items available including calzones, salads, burgers, grinders, and an array of appetizers and sides. Prices are generally pretty cheap, with small pizzas being just under $10 and large pizzas being a bit over $10.
Lincoln is by no means a dining destination (though AKA Bistro is indeed a popular spot), and the same can obviously be said for auto garages and gas stations. But Country Pizza is a nice option if you are in the area, especially if you're looking for a bite to eat that's quick, cheap, and tasty. And a big plus is the fact that you can also kill two birds with one stone by filling up both your car and your stomach while you're there.
Copyright © 2012-2014, Boston's Hidden Restaurants (www.hiddenboston.com).