There are many reasons why a number of good restaurants in the Greater Boston area are so little-known; some just happen to be in relatively low-traffic areas or don't stand out much from the road, while others are not covered much by the media, and still others are, well, a little too rough around the edges for some people's tastes. And naturally, there are a handful of places that fit all three of these categories to a degree. A good example of this would be The Squires on Route 53 in Hanover, a comfortable little spot that is ignored by what seems to be nearly everyone in the region other than folks who live nearby.
If you don't know anything about The Squires (stop laughing, by the way, as it has absolutely, positively no connection with the Revere strip joint of a similar name), it would be pretty easy to drive by the place, as it looks just a bit on the intimidating side, tucked into a wooded location the way it is with an ancient sign along the side of it that says, simply, "The Squires." But once again, looks can sometimes be deceiving, as The Squires is actually a very friendly place that caters to everyone from bikers to retirees to white-collar professionals to construction workers. The L-shaped dining room is comfortable and quite roomy, and the bar, which sits in the middle and back of the restaurant, is mostly walled off from the main dining room and is typically pretty laid back and mellow--unless a big game is on, in which case all bets are off.
The pub grub and classic American food at The Squires is consistently good, with standouts being the meaty chili and the freshly made soups that change daily; zingy-tasting fried pickle spears; outstanding wings that can be ordered with a very hot buffalo sauce; a salad with boneless buffalo tenders on top; the burgers, which are grilled and with just the right amount of grease (one of this writer's favorite burgers south of Boston); the sirloin steak, which is tender, lean, and very cheap; the similarly good steak tips, which come with a tangy marinade; the bar-style pizza, which has a decent crust and a terrifically hearty sauce; the old-fashioned macaroni and cheese casserole, which comes with a breadcrumb topping and can be ordered with chicken, beef, or lobster; and the scallops, which are fresh and tasty, and a great value. In addition to the burgers, other sandwiches at The Squires are also impressive, with the ham and cheese sandwich being particularly good--and big enough to satisfy the hunger of most people. Beers are a bit limited, but do include a few local craft ales.
The Squires will probably never be seen as anything but a local hangout that continues to be invisible to nearly everyone outside of the Hanover area. And while locals are probably ok with that, this really is a restaurant that should be considered by anyone who is traveling through the area, including those heading to or from Cape Cod, since The Squires is only a minute or two off of Route 3. Don't expect much in the way of elegance or upscale touches at The Squires, but for a good, cheap meal in a welcoming environment, this place is pretty tough to beat.
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